Hiking the Alta Via 2 of the Dolomites — A trekking guide’s personal journey

A trekking guide shares her personal journey on the Alta Via 2 of the Dolomites — wild passes, Marmolada, Pisciadù and the success of new itinerary for 2026

A hiker climbing up toward Rifugio Puez on AV2 trek in the Dolomites

Between the hot summer days of guiding in the Dolomites and the Mont Blanc massif, I took the time for a personal summer adventure this September. With excitement in my belly, I laced up my trail running shoes, left the client itineraries behind for a moment, and set off to hike the Alta Via 2 of the Dolomites — not as a guide, but purely as a mountain lover.

Yet, as always, I hiked I in the crisp morning air with a question in mind:
Could I one day guide my trekking clients here safely on beautiful trails, without technical via ferrata equipment?

What followed was one of the most inspiring, humbling, and rewarding long-distance treks I have ever put together.


Why I would Choose Alta Via 2 (and Not Alta Via 1)

As a trekking guide, I work a lot on Alta Via 1, the most famous long-distance route in the Dolomites. Thanks to it’s beauty, it is stunning, but extremely popular. In peak season, the trails around Fanes, Lagazuoi, and Falzarego Pass can feel crowded.

Whenever possible, I want to:

  • Relieve pressure on wildlife
  • Offer quieter trails
  • Give clients space for real immersion and reflection

Alta Via 2 of Dolomites is very different. It is:

  • Wilder
  • More demanding
  • Less commercial
  • And far less guided

You still meet hikers — but only in the day-hike hotspots close to the valley floors. And that difference is felt in every step.


Above Passo Rodella — Forests, Far Horizons & Familiar Peaks

Lush alpine pines in the foreground and mountains of the Dolomites in the distance with blue sky and valley cloud below the AV2 trail
Views high above Corvara, Dolomites
Dramatic clouds over the AV2 trail in Puez-Odle Nature Park

The hiking above Passo Rodella unfolded through beautiful forested terrain, opening into sweeping views north toward the snow-capped Austrian Alps. This natively German-speaking region of Italy is incredibly picturesque: cattle roaming freely in alpine pastures, immaculate wooden huts, and flawless mountain trails.

What struck me most was the sense of space. Our trail was above the clouds!

I could see far into the horizon — peaks I know well and love deeply from years of guiding in the Dolomites. I silently waved toward:

  • The Sella Plateau
  • The white limestone summit of Croda di Becco
  • Tofana di Rozes
  • Lagazuoi

Looking ahead of me rose the jagged towers of the Puez–Odle Nature Park, where the climb was leading.

As I entered the park, the flow of day hikers faded behind me. Most had turned back after summiting Piccolo Sas de Pùtia. From here on, the Alta Via 2 felt wonderfully quiet.


Rifugio Genova & The Purest Form of Dolomites Terrain

Mountain hut Rifugio Genova on AV2 trek with Dolomites mountain view and blue sky dotted with some cumulus clouds.
Alta Via 2 View from Passo Poma on the right Picco Puez, on the left towards AV1, Sennes plateau and pointy Croda di Becco summit in the distance

Approaching Rifugio Genova (Schutzhütte Genova), the trail crossed open alpine meadows with unhindered views of the sharp Piz de Puez. This is the Dolomites at their very best:

  • Towering limestone walls
  • Endless steep passes
  • Valleys opening one after another

After almost every climb, I found myself sitting down at the pass, simply absorbing the landscape. The beauty was overwhelming, constantly changing — and deeply grounding.

Despite the popularity of the Dolomites, moments like this still exist. Often we had entire mountain passes to ourselves, with only the occasional mountain chough flying by.

The hikers I met gradually became familiar faces — some moving slowly under the weight of via ferrata gear, others fast and confident as technical scramblers. Instead, we stayed with a pure trekking line: exciting cables, ladders, and handrails — but no technical climbing.


Passo Gardena, Pisciadù & The Highest Point of the Trek

Alta Via 2 hiking grassy trail with Dolomites Sella summits coloured yellow in sunset
Rifugio and lake lago Pisciadu surrounded by the Dolomites peaks on the AV2 hiking trail
A hiker holding on o metal rails on a steep rock hiking trail of the Alta Via 2 of Dolomites

Arriving at Passo Gardena was breathtaking. The Sella massif rose in every direction — and it was clear why this is one of the most photographed locations in the Dolomites.

Still, it felt good to leave the noise behind and climb up toward Lago Pisciadù. The hut above the lake offered:

  • Total silence
  • Incredible reflections on the water
  • And perfect views for spotting ibex scrambling across silent rock faces

From here the trail steepened again. We climbed high — above 2,900 meters, the highest point of the trek.


Cold Mist, Warm Soup & Sun over Passo Pordoi

Alta Via 2 Hikes in a steep rocky gully above Passo Gradena in Dolomites
A female hiker balancing on a rock with Alta Via 2 sign painted on it. Dolomites grey peaks in the background on a cloudy day.
AV2 trek passing along a steep rocky path carved to the side of the mountain in the Pordoi, Dolomites

The weather turned cold and unsettled. Wrapped in cloud, the temperature dropped fast. I wore:

  • Rain pants
  • Jacket
  • Hat
  • Gloves
  • … and every other layer I had brought!

There is an option here to climb even higher to Piz Boè, but that day, a bowl of hot soup in the mountain hut felt like the better summit.

Later, the clouds lifted. Sunshine spilled across Passo Pordoi, and suddenly everything shimmered:

  • Deep green forests
  • Rolling alpine meadows
  • Dark limestone walls rising above fresh rain

Marmolada — Walking Around the Queen of the Dolomites

A woman hiker on AV2 in front of Marmolada cliffs with dramatic Dolomites views above clouds
Alta Via 2 trek with Alpine wild flowers, grazing meadows and rocky cliffs above the clouds
Rifugio Falier in a spot of bright light in Ombertola pass, with Marmolada cliffs in the background

Slowly, the massive white bulk of Marmolada appeared on the horizon.

The Queen of the Dolomites.
The tallest peak of the range.
Its glacier-covered north face glowing above everything else.

It felt impossible that in just a day and a half I would be sleeping on the far side of this giant.

The following day, I traced the trail beneath the towering south face of Marmolada. The walls here rise almost 800 meters straight above you. Step by step, without drama, simply by walking — the mountain is crossed, I have walked around it!

And suddenly, when emerging from the trees, a new valley opens:
Val d’Ombertola.
A vast, wild, silent space.
Dolomites trekking does not get better than this.


Falling in Love Again — The Pale di San Martino

Dramatic clouds above a grassy ridge above the Passo San Pellegrino of Alta Via 2 of Dolomites
A hiker on the scree slopes of high mountain trekking in the Dolomites AV2
Sunrise avove the Dolomites with valley cloud below

This is the magic of long-distance trekking.

Just as I felt sadness leaving Marmolada behind, I found myself falling in love again — this time with the Pale di San Martino massif. Endless ridges, towering summits, deep valleys. The Alta Via 2 simply keeps on giving.

Yes, I worked hard for these views. But the uphills and scree slopes made every snack break, every photo stop, every view feel richer.

From Passo San Pellegrino, I climbed once more — joyful, yet bittersweet. The end was approaching. And already my guide’s brain was working:

  • Weather variants
  • Client abilities
  • Safer alternatives
  • More challenging options

Today, as bookings already arrive for August 2026, I know these dreams are becoming real, I will hike the AV2 of Dolomites again.


Why we Created a Guided AV2 Trek for 2026

As a trekking guide, I see more and more clients craving:

  • Exposure
  • High mountain terrain
  • Big views
  • A real physical challenge

Alta Via 2 offers exactly this — without requiring via ferrata or glacier equipment if the right variants are chosen.

Because of this journey, I worked with the Happy Tracks colleagues to create a guided Alta Via 2 of Dolomites trek for summer 2026.

You can see it here:
https://happytracks.ch/hikes/alta-via-2-of-the-dolomites/

Not many operators offer Alta Via 2. We are proud to give you this opportunity — to experience it safely, responsibly, and in the company of like-minded trekkers.


Walk With us on Alta Via 2 of the Dolomites

If you are looking for and Alta Via trek that is:

  • A less crowded alternative to Alta Via 1
  • A high-alpine, exposed and scenic long-distance trek
  • A true Dolomites adventure
  • And a professionally guided experience

Then Alta Via 2 may be your next mountain journey.

If you would like to join me on these trails, you can check the 2026 trek and book your place here:

I would love to trek these incredible paths with you.

A female hiker with arms up in the air on the rocky scree trail of Alta Via 2 of the Dolomites

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