TMB Highlights : trail secrets and what not to miss

Read our TMB highlights post to discover detours and must-stop places that turn this physical challenge into a complete, unforgettable experience.

In this article, we share our favourite TMB highlights. These lesser-known stops sit just off the beaten track and add an extra dimension to the journey. For us, a multi-day hike like the TMB isn’t just about the physical challenge; it’s about eating good food, learning local history, and feeling connected. With that in mind, we’ve put together a list of what not to miss on the Tour du Mont Blanc. These are the small detours we try to make time for because they add so much value; they turn the physical challenge into something more rounded, and leave you feeling satisfied. We’ve organized this list of TMB highlights chronologically, following the typical itinerary. For more information on the Tour du Mont Blanc, visit our main page here.

First published in 2020, we recently edited and added more details.


tmb Highlights in France

It’s so difficult to choose just three TMB highlights for France! So we’ve included four (with two on day 3!). This is a diverse mix that should have something for everyone, whether you’re drawn to big mountain views, local flavours, or quiet moments of history and culture.

  • Stage 1 (Les Houches – Les Contamines): Col du Tricot
    If you have stable weather, it’s well-worth doing this popular TMB variant. Make sure to spot Col du Balme way off in the distance, which is where you’ll be in 9 day’s time!

  • Stage 2 (Les Contamines – Les Chapieux): An alpine dairy
    Visit the dairy farm at Ville des Glaciers, which you pass when hiking to Les Chapieux.

  • Stage 3 (Les Chapieux – Val Veny): Lac du Miage / A Mountain Museum
    Dip your toes in the milky-blue waters of this remote lake. It is just off the trail on your way to Val Veny.

    AND / OR : Poke your head into Casermetta, a mountain museum just below Col de la Seigne.

Col du Tricot : The Scenic Route

Unless the weather is very bad, we always take this variant. The path is steep, rocky, and challenging, but as you come out of the trees you get unique views that aren’t often seen elsewhere. On your left, look out for Aiguilles de Goûter, and on your right you’ll see Mont Vorassay. You can also see Col du Balme in the distance, which you’ll climb up to in 9 day’s time. It can be very windy at the top of Col du Tricot, so we rest a few metres below, in the ruins on the left. Another perk of taking this variant is that you pass Chalet Miage, where you can buy excellent blueberry tarts.

Ville des Glaciers : Meet the Makers

It’s nice to put a face behind specialties like Beaufort cheese. We like chatting with the farmers; meeting the people who milk the cows and make the cheese. Inside the rustic farm building, you can visit the cows, look at the equipment, and buy a range of dairy produce. It’s interesting to see the massive wheels of cheese, and it’s a good insight into traditional Savoyard life. If you’re a foodie, this will be up there as one of your TMB hightlights.

Lac du Miage : Cool Down, reset

Along the TMB, you’ll pass many alpine lakes, each with their own story and character. Lac Blanc dazzles – the way it reflects the Mont Blanc massif is unreal – but because it’s easily accessed by cable car, it can also get very busy. Likewise, Lac Champex is special, but it’s in the centre of town. Lac du Miage is our personal favourite because it’s quiet and right in the mountains. On a long, hot day, it’s the perfect reset button. Dip your toes in the cold water; splash your face or pour water over your whole head… Take a peaceful moment to absorb the setting, then get back on the trail feeling lighter and revitalized.

Casermetta : Ask the Experts

This beautifully restored building started life as an Italian outpost. At the end of the Second World War, it was renovated and slowly became what it is today : a peaceful meeting place for mountain-enthusiasts. The staff run free workshops about all sort of topics, and they invite passers-by to pop in. If you have an unanswered question about glaciers, geology, alpine culture or nature, they can probably help you!


TMB Highlights Museum beneath Col de la Seigne
Museum beneath Col de la Seigne

 


TMB HIGHLIGHTS IN ITALY

Crossing into Italy brings a different flavour of TMB hightlights. The views and landscape is a bit more rugged, and the food is more unapologetically indulgent!

  • Stage 4 (Val Veny – Courmayeur) : Mont Chétif / Gelatos
    Bag an extra peak by hiking up to Mont Chétif from Maison Veille.

    AND / OR : Enjoy a delicious, refreshing gelato in the centre of Courmayeur.

  • Stage 5 (Courmayeur – Val Ferret) : A remote valley
    If you’re staying at Rifugio Bonatti, hike about 1km off the TMB trail towards Col entre deux Sauts. You’ll find a quiet, remote valley, which is our favourite sunset spot.

  • Stage 6 (Val Ferret – La Fouly) : Black Vanilla Orchids
    Spot these distinct plants and breath in their warm, sweet smell as you reach Grand Col Ferret.

Mont Chétif : One more summit!

Just 2 kilometres from Maison Vieille (with 500m of ascent), Mont Chétif is a fun bonus summit when you still have fire in your legs. Not many TMB hikers know this detour, so it’s often quiet, and you get a nice surprise at the top : a towering Madonna statue, with a hidden chapel underneath. If you like an extra challenge, this will be one of your TMB highlights.

Entre deux Sauts : Slip Away

In the height of summer, when the TMB becomes more busy, we slip away in search of a quiet place to watch the sunset. If you’re staying at Bonatti, you should have time to check in, drop your bags, and wander up the valley before dinner. As the light softens, the other voices fade, leaving only the sound of your footsteps echoing around the valley. You’ll see some scattered farm buildings and a chapel perched on a rock. It’s a small detour that feels entirely your own; whether you’re looking for some calm, or a bit more adventure, this should do it.

Gelato : Join the Locals


Because the hike from Val Veny to Courmayeur is short – especially if you ride the lift down – you’ll have time to explore town. And no tour of Courmayeur is complete without stopping at the gelateria! Gelato is Italy’s version of ice cream. Churned more slowly and made with more milk than cream, gelatos are more densely flavoured than ice cream and have a softer, silky smooth texture. Courmayeur’s gelateria is in the central plaza – Piazza Brocherel – and really does feel like the living heart of town. In the early afternoon, locals gather to share a few moments of indulgence. If you’re vegan, or just prefer a lighter treat, they sell a range of dairy-free sorbets too.

Black Vanilla Orchids

The Black Vanilla Orchid lives up to its name with a soft, vanilla-like scent, so distinctive that it’s used in perfumes and lotions. The fragrance is actually quite subtle – it’s only noticeable up close – which means most TMB hikers pass them without realising how special they are. Like many orchids, the Black Vanilla Orchid is very rare, so finding one feels like a quiet privilege. If you’re into alpine plants or drawn to unusual scents, this will become one of those subtle TMB highlights that lingers in your memory for years (this is one of my personal TMB highlights from when I first hiked the route with my family).


TMB HIGHLIGHTS IN Switzerland

Here is a list that summarizes the best of Switzerland, in our opinion! Hearty food and fascinating wildlife… our favourite Swiss TMB highlights…

  • Stage 7 (La Fouly – Champex) : Botanical Gardens
    Visit this The Botanical Garden in Champex. It is just on the edge of town, and very easy to get to.

  • Stage 8 (Champex – Trient) : WW2 Bunker / Rostï
    Spot this disguised lookout just below Col du Forclaz, as you descend to Trient.

    AND : Stop for rostï at Alpage Bovine.

  • Stage 9 (Trient – Le Tour) : Ibex
    Spot families of ibex on the cliffs as you come down from Col du Balme.

Botanical Garden : Learn and Relax

The Botanical Garden is cheap to enter and is a great place to relax. If you’re interested in botany, or if you just enjoy being around beautiful plants, this is a must. Most TMB hikers take this time to relax by Champex lake and eat ice cream, but what they don’t realise is… you will normally have the time to do both!

WW2 Bunker : One for History Geeks

This was built just before the Second World War, when tensions were starting to rise in Europe. The bunker is well-disguised as a Swiss chalet, just below the Col du Forclaz and next to the Franco-Swiss border. Make sure to look closely at the big rock beneath the chalet… But we won’t spoil the surprise! You can visit the bunker for free, and it’s an interesting reminder of the important part the Alps played in the war. Inside, you can find more information.

Rostï : just what you need

A potato rösti is a golden, pan-fried cake of grated potatoes. A good one should have a crisp surface (they are fried in butter!) and a gooey centre. At Alpage Bovine there is a small “buvette” (alpine café) that serves excellent potato rostï. Really, we think these are the best rostï going! The chefs use cheese from their own herd of cows, which graze around the buvette. They also serve omlettes and a range of cakes, using their own eggs. If you’re hiking in peak-season, or if you’re an especially large group, make sure to reserve a table ahead of time.

Ibex : Can you spot them?

An ibex is a type of wild mountain goat known for its distinctive (and very heavy!) curved horns, and its almost gravity-defying ability to climb steep cliffs. They actually have rubbery hooves to help them on rocks. Ibex are quite common in the Alps these days, but to the untrained eye, they can be difficult to spot. In the past few years, we’ve noticed a family of ibex living in the cliffs ahead of you as you descend from Col du Balme. It’s not often that you see a group of ibex like this, and most TMB hikers don’t notice them as they are well-hidden by the grey rocks and the yellowish grass.

 


We hope you enjoyed reading about our TMB highlights, and that you feel excited about your upcoming trip! If you have any questions, please drop us a comment below!

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Pink sky with a sunrise over Matterhorn mountain, reflected on a lake surface on Hiker's Haute Route in Zermatt