If you’re hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc, the Haute Route, or one of the Alta Via trails, you’ll probably stay in a mountain refuge. Perched high above the valleys, these remote huts are a defining character of hiking in the Alps. It’s often in the afternoons at refuges – with patchy phone signal and nowhere to be – that hikers get to know one another.

In this article, we’ll describe what it’s like to stay in a typical refuge, so you can get excited about your upcoming trip and know what to expect.

What’s a Mountain refuge like?

The standard of mountain refuges varies, but most hiking refuges are larger and more comfortable than those at really high altitudes. The smaller ones at higher altitudes are build for climbers and mountaineers. These can be simple cabins, sleeping as few as 6 people.

On popular trekking routes such as the TMB, a typical mountain refuge sleeps between 40 and 100 people. Given that most refuges can only be reached on foot or by helicopter, the standard of accommodation and cleanliness is remarkably high. They are similar in standard to traditional youth hostels.

Mountain Refuge facilities

Considering their remote locations, the facilities in refuges are surprisingly good. Most importantly, there’s usually a sunny terrace where you can enjoy a well-earned drink after a long day on the trail.

Most mountain refuges classic hiking routes have showers, although these are sometimes coin-operated or time-limited to conserve water. Towels are not normally provided, so we recommend bringing a lightweight microfibre towel. Bathrooms are shared and are typically separated by sex.

Many refuges also have drying rooms for wet clothes and boots, and most provide electrical outlets for charging phones and other devices. However, power can be limited, so it’s wise not to rely on being able to charge everything every night.

Sleeping in a Mountain Refuge

Most mountain refuges offer accommodation in mixed-sex dormitories. These vary in size depending on the refuge. Some rooms sleep just four people, while others accommodate twenty or more. Beds are often arranged as bunk beds. In some refuges, the mattresses are all laid out in a row, so you may have to sleep quite close to another person.

What is a sleeping bag liner?

Mountain refuges provide pillows, blankets and sometimes duvets, but the bedding is not typically washed between every guest. For this reason, you’ll need to bring a sleeping bag liner, which is mandatory in most refuges. These are lightweight, inexpensive and available from most outdoor stores.

Sleeping bag liners help keep the bedding clean and also reduce the risk of spreading bed bugs. Refuge guardians work hard to prevent bed bugs and invest significant time and money in keeping their accommodation clean and comfortable for guests, so bringing a liner is an important part of helping them do that.

Bring earplugs and an eye mask!

We strongly recommend bringing earplugs and an eye mask, as they can make all the difference if your roommates arrive late, leave early, or happen to be enthusiastic snorers!

What should I wear in a refuge?

Most hikers change into comfortable clothes when they arrive at a refuge, and thermals are a popular choice. As you’ll already have them in your backpack, there’s no need to pack anything special. Dining rooms can sometimes be chilly, so it’s common to wear thermals with a fleece or light jacket while eating.

The dormitories, on the other hand, are usually warm, especially when full. Because of this, many people sleep in thin t-shirts and leggings. Most refuges also provide hut shoes or Crocs to wear indoors, meaning you won’t need to bring your own slippers.

FOOD AND DRINK

Breakfast and dinner are generally provided by the mountain refuge. If you’re vegan, vegetarian or gluten-free, just let your guide or the refuge staff know. This is not a problem, and they will provide you with a specific meal. If you’re hungry, you can ask the staff for more servings of food.

Breakfast

Breakfast is continental in style. Each refuge has a different start time, but you can normally arrive from around 6.30am and help yourself from a buffet. There is always bread and condiments (e.g. honey, jam, nutella), and then normally cereal, yoghurt, milk, fruit, cheese and a selection of cold meats. In Italy, there is often cake too! You can help yourself to tea, coffee and juice.

Dinner

Dinner is one of the highlights of staying in a mountain refuge. Meals are served at a set time, usually around 7pm, so don’t be late or you may miss the first course. The staff will tell you the dinner time when you arrive. You’ll be assigned a table, sometimes shared with other hikers. It’s a great opportunity to swap stories from the trail and get to know people from around the world.

Meals are typically simple, hearty and designed to refuel hungry hikers. Dinner often begins with soup and bread, served communally in large bowls. It’s customary to help serve those around you and to pass empty bowls back once everyone has finished.

The main course usually consists of pasta, rice or potatoes accompanied by a meat dish and vegetables. Dessert is generally something simple, such as yoghurt, mousse or fruit salad. In France, you’ll often end with a cheese course, showcasing local specialities like Beaufort.

Drinks

Each mountain refuge, no matter how remote, has a bar! Here you can buy soft drinks, tea, coffee, beer and wine. In the mountain refuges that serve classic hikes, like the TMB, water is normally free and safe to drink. If the water is unsafe, there will be a clear sign. These are paid for separately. Sometimes they can be a bit more expensive, as everything is normally delivered by helicopter.

Is a mountain refuge safe? 

If you’re not used to sharing a room with strangers, staying in a mountain refuge can feel a little daunting. For some hikers, particularly those travelling alone, the idea of sleeping in a mixed dormitory may raise concerns. In reality, mountain refuges are generally friendly, welcoming places with a strong sense of community. Most people are there for the same reason: to enjoy a few days in the mountains, share a meal, and get a good night’s sleep before the next day’s hike.

Over many years of hiking and guiding in the Alps, we’ve found refuge atmospheres to be overwhelmingly respectful and good-natured. While it’s always sensible to keep an eye on your valuables, problems are rare and fellow hikers are often quick to help one another.

Feeling worried?

For anyone feeling apprehensive about sharing a dormitory, a little planning can help. If you’re travelling with friends or family, ask to sleep between members of your group. If you’re hiking solo, talk with your guide or else let the refuge staff know. They are used to accomodating first-timers and may be able to find you a different bed. Some refuges also have a small number of private rooms, although these are usually booked well in advance.

Mountain Refuge Etiquette

One of the things that makes staying in a mountain refuge so enjoyable is the shared sense of respect among hikers. From keeping noise to a minimum in the dormitories to knowing who has priority on the trail, a little mountain etiquette goes a long way.

We’ve put together a dedicated guide covering the unwritten rules of hiking in the Alps, including refuge etiquette, trail courtesy and how to be a considerate mountain guest.

Read our guide to Mountain Etiquette →

Mountain Refuge : one of the highlights

For many hikers, staying in a mountain refuge is one of the most memorable parts of their trip. Although they may seem daunting at first, most people find that mountain refuges are friendly, welcoming places. Once you’ve experienced your first refuge sunset, communal dinner and early morning views, it’s easy to understand why so many hikers look back on refuge life as a highlight of their adventure.

To see what a typical mountain refuge is like, watch the video below from Refuge le Peuty on the Tour du Mont Blanc.